It’s far to say that German wine is paradoxical. Most of its production is at worst, loathed, at best, ignored. At the same time there is no doubt among wine lovers that the best wines, usually Riesling-based whites, are truly world class, and perhaps even the best and most ageworthy white wines in the world - certainly when factoring value-for-money and consistency into the evaluation. But the top-lists have been pretty static and highly focused on producers of classic off-dry and sweet wines, primarily in the Mosel valley. Enter Klaus-Peter and Julia Keller, who have single handedly done more to change that perception in the global wine market in the recent years and paved the way for leagues of ambitious young german wine producers. While Keller does make sweet wine, and do grow other things than Riesling (all worth room in your drinking habits), the dry single vineyard Rieslings are where all the hype is. These reach these shores in minute quantities, and no-one gets full cases of any single wine. These are beautiful and intense wines, sculptured around piercing acidity with layers of hauntingly complex aromatics wreathed around it. We joke that people still need converting to drink Riesling (it’s not a joke at all in fact), and if there is any producer to bring the skeptics around, Keller is it.