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Timorasso: The Best Italian White Wine You’ve Never Heard Of

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Words by Matt Tervooren

Timorasso: The Best Italian White Wine You’ve Never Heard Of

The Best Italian White Wine You’ve Never Heard Of


Timorasso is the most underrated white grape in Italy. Rich and textured like chenin, mineral and high-acid like Chablis, it’s only a matter of time before this obscure Piemontese variety gets its due.


If you’ve never heard of timorasso, you’re not alone. It’s a rare white grape only found in Colli Tortonesi, a small region east of Barolo. As recently as the late 80’s, it was on the verge of extinction, with only one acre - less than 500 vines - remaining worldwide. That changed, however, thanks to one man: Walter Massa.


At his family vineyard in Colli Tortonesi, Massa bottled the first 100% timorasso in 1987, and then planted a vineyard dedicated to the grape a few years later. Fast-forward through a couple decades of raised eyebrows from winemakers and sommeliers, and you’ll now find timorasso on some of the best wine lists in New York City. Walter Massa’s full-bodied, age-worthy white has become a reference point, but you’ll also find versions from iconic names like Oddero, Roagna, Pio Cesare, and Vietti (Luca Currado compares timorasso to chenin blanc).


While its days of obscurity are numbered, timorasso is still a deep-cut, with a lot of ground to make up before it’s found on by-the-glass lists with the likes of Etna Bianco and friulano. The good news is, until its reputation catches up to its quality, it’ll continue offering fantastic value for the price.




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