If you’re a fan of the fresh, lifted, finely-etched side of Barolo, then it doesn’t get any better than Burlotto. Under Fabio Alessandria (great-great-grandson of G.B. Burlotto), the benchmark estate of Verduno has been on a historically great run of late. Today, their Barolos are consistently some of Italy’s greatest red wines. Here’s a quick rundown of the Burlotto lineup.
Barbera, Dolcetto, & Freisa
While Burlotto is best known for their nebbiolos from Verduno, their ‘everyday reds’ made from barbera, dolcetto, and freisa are benchmarks for Piedmont’s fresher, immediately enjoyable grape varieties.
Pelaverga
Pelaverga is a grape native to Burlotto’s hometown of Verduno. Fabio Alessandria calls it an ideal “lunch wine.” It’s pale, smells like strawberries, and is extremely drinkable with a light chill.
Barolo
The style of Burlotto Barolo is for ethereal aromatics and a silken, intricate texture that’s more reminiscent of Burgundy than most nebbiolo. Based in Verduno in the far north of Barolo, their standard Barolo showcases the commune’s hallmark perfume and elegance, and it consistently punches well above its weight for the price.
Acclivi
Acclivi is also a blend of various Verduno crus, including Monvigliero, but it’s only made in select vintages from prime parcels. It delivers an added layer of detail and complexity.
Castelletto
2018 marks Burlotto’s first-ever bottling from Castelletto in Monforte. If Verduno is Barolo’s answer to the Chambolle-Musigny, then the muscular, long-haul wines of Monforte are more like Gevrey-Chambertin.
Cannubi
Cannubi, historically one of Barolo’s greatest vineyards, can act as something of a heat-trap. Yet, Fabio Alessandria, like nobody else, proves that the wines don’t need to lose their delicacy and grace with the warmer weather. His Cannubi transmits the intensity and depth of the vineyard, along with Burlotto's classic salty freshness and florality.
Monvigliero
The Monvigliero of Burlotto is one of my absolute favorite wines in Barolo. The vineyard’s powdery pale limestone, Fabio’s use of whole-cluster fermentation, and the long maceration time all come together to create a truly singular wine. Between the notes of wild strawberries and olive tapenade, and the explosive, spice-laden aromatics, there’s just nothing else like it.
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