Sylvie Esmonin, Gevrey-Chambertin Vieilles Vignes 2022

Bigger even than Sylvie’s Clos Saint-Jacques, this is a lot of wine. It’s made from century-old, low-yielding vines. It usually needs some age to unfurl in the bottle, but the throwback nature of the ‘21 vintage produced a fresher, more approachable wine.