Moreau-Naudet, Chablis Premier Cru 'Montée de Tonnerre' 2023

The vast majority of Chablis has a high floor and low ceiling, meaning it’s reliably refreshing and little else. A handful of producers, however, make wines that transcend the category. Theirs are textured and concentrated, while still retaining Chablis’ classic brisk, salty notes. Of those, Moreau-Naudet offers the best value for the price. From the same part of Montée de Tonnerre as Raveneau’s Chapelot bottling, this is firmly structured and the most mineral wine in the lineup.