Moreau-Naudet, Chablis Premier Cru 'Vaillons' 2023 Magnum

The vast majority of Chablis has a high floor and low ceiling, meaning it’s reliably refreshing and little else. A handful of producers, however, make wines that transcend the category. Theirs are textured and concentrated, while still retaining Chablis’ classic brisk, salty notes. Of those, Moreau-Naudet offers the best value for the price. This old-vine bottling from Vaillons is fresh and ultra-defined.