Domaine Labet, Côtes du Jura Pinot Noir 'Les Varrons' 2023

Labet, Overnoy, Miroirs, Ganevat. While now highly allocated and sought after, things looked quite a bit different 20 years ago. The Jura remained an undiscovered gem, a kind of country cousin to Burgundy. As the region became the center of the natural wine movement, and its savory, mineral-driven wines went from esoteric to in-vogue, things changed in a hurry. Now, the wines of Julien Labet, who previously worked at Ramonet in Burgundy, can be found in the most serious cellars and restaurants around the world. Labet doesn’t produce a ton of red wine, but what Julien does make is very much worth seeking out. This pinot noir is earthy and bright-fruited, easy-drinking in the best kind of way.