Monteraponi, Trebbiano 2021

This is a Tuscan white like no other. In the ancient hilltop town of Radda, Michele Braganti farms a small parcel of trebbiano, which macerates for a short time on the skins before aging in Burgundy barrels. Those barrels are steamed rather than toasted. There are a bunch of reasons for this - avoiding wood tannins and oaky flavors - but the takeaway is that Michele is a seriously intentional winemaker. And it shows in his wines. This white is broad and luxurious, balanced by a refreshing citrusy backbone.