Maison Deux Montille Montagny 2017

Alix and Etienne de Montille are the sister-and-brother duo behind Deux Montille. Their father, Hubert de Montille, was very much the Father Time of Burgundy, the region’s greatest champion of old-school tradition. Alix and Etienne share that reverence, but have freshened things up a bit, utilizing organics and more conscientious farming to create easier-drinking wines that, while classic, are delicious today. Their focus is on under-appreciated, off-the-beaten path villages where prices are low and quality is high. Montagny is a small pocket of southern Burgundy devoted only to chardonnay. The wines of Montagny share the roundness and immediate charm of the south, but good bottles like this maintain the balancing, brisk acidity of the more renowned villages of Chassagne, Meursault, and Puligny further up north. It’s a diamond in the rough.