François Cotat, Sancerre 'Culs de Beaujeu' 2021

Sancerre from François and Pascal Cotat is unlike any other sauvignon blanc in the world. For one, that’s because it’s better, but it also doesn’t resemble the reliably citrusy stuff you might be familiar with. Instead, it’s rich, full-flavored, and complex, owing in part to the fact that both Cotat cousins let their grapes ripen longer than any other producers in Sancerre. Those grapes come from the region’s very best vineyards, which have the same soils as Chablis. Perhaps unsurprisingly, the wines remind us of truly great Chablis.

This comes from a tiny plot of old vines in a particularly cool growing area. As a result, it’s as crisp and bright as any of François’ single-vineyard wines.